Starlink mounting options: which one fits your house?

Sky first, then the house

Starlink’s dish talks to satellites that move across the whole sky, so it needs a wide view, not a line to one point. Starlink’s advice is simple: if there’s no clear view from the ground, Starlink says to use an elevated spot such as a roof, pole or wall. It also says many customers find a permanent mount high up, on a roof or a pole, works best, and that a wall mount is fine when the dish sits above the wall with a clear view.

Starlink doesn’t publish a minimum height or a distance-from-trees rule for homes. What decides it is how high nearby trees, roofs and hills rise in the dish’s sky. The drawing below shows the same tree from five spots. Each step up lowers the treetop in the dish’s view. That’s why the ground can fail, the roof can be borderline, and a pole can clear.

Choose a mount in five steps

1. 01

   Step 1: Scan the easiest spot first

   Open the Starlink app’s obstruction tool and scan from the yard or the spot you’d most like to use. Starlink’s own install guides say to use that tool to confirm a spot before mounting. How to scan.

   5 minutesPhone
2. 02

   Step 2: Go up only if the sky is blocked

   Blocked? Scan again from higher: an upstairs window, the roof edge from a ladder, or on a pole you hold up. Starlink says to use a roof, pole or wall when the ground doesn’t see clear sky. The sky angle calculator tells you roughly how high.

   15 minutesLadder, helper
3. 03

   Step 3: Match the mount to the surface

   Shingle roof, metal roof, tile, a wall near the roofline, a pole or the ground each have their own mount. Use the table below.

4. 04

   Step 4: Confirm which dish you’ll get

   Starlink’s mounts are made for specific dishes. Check the product name says Standard 4, Standard 4 X or V5 before you buy.

5. 05

   Step 5: Plan the cable and the rules

   Measure the cable route to an indoor outlet, and if you have an HOA or a landlord, settle where the dish can go before anyone drills.

Which mount for which house

Start from the row that matches your house. Prices are what Starlink’s shop listed on Nov 3, 2026, shipping included; third-party parts vary by seller.

Clay or concrete tile? Starlink sells no tile mount and says the Ridgeline isn’t recommended for clay tile. A wall or pole mount, or a roofer who works on tile, is usually the safer path. Manufactured home? A pole beside the home or a wall bracket into framing avoids loading a thin roof.

Starlink’s own mounts and prices

Starlink sells six home mounts. Five are labeled for Standard 4 and 4 X; the Home Mount is for the V5. Starlink says its mounts can be bought on the Starlink Shop once your kit is ready to ship.

starlink.com

Check your dish model before you buy a mount

Starlink’s US home order list carried three dishes on Nov 3, 2026: Standard 4 X (Starlink also calls it “V4”), Standard 4 and Starlink V5. Starlink says the V5 is only in select areas for now, and you only see which kit you’ll get after entering your address on starlink.com.

• Standard 4 and 4 X share Starlink’s Standard mounts: Pivot, Wall, Ridgeline, Pipe Adapter and X-Frame. Starlink says those mounts fit only Standard and Enterprise dishes.
• V5 comes with a kickstand and its own pipe adapter (for 1.2–2.0 in pipe), and Starlink sells a separate Home Mount for it.

Starlink’s mounts or third-party?

Starlink says you can use a third-party mount, but it can’t vouch for performance or fit. One rule matters more than the brand: don’t let metal wrap around the dish’s base, and don’t set the dish directly on metal. Starlink says both may interfere with GPS and aren’t supported. If you go third-party, check that:

1. the listing names your dish (Standard 4, Standard 4 X or V5);
2. it holds the dish by its mast or a pipe, not by clamping the dish body;
3. the hardware is galvanized or stainless steel, and the maker states a wind rating;
4. you can still rotate the dish to align it in the app.

For wind: Starlink rates the Standard 4 X dish as operational in winds of 60 mph+, the mounted V5 at 165 mph, and the Ridgeline Mount only up to 50 mph. A mount is only as strong as what it’s screwed into. And Starlink says the kit isn’t designed for hurricanes or tornadoes.

Spot by spot on a typical house

1. Roof peak. Usually the most sky on the house. Reach it with a pivot mount near the ridge or the no-drill Ridgeline. Roof install.
2. Roof face. Easier to reach, but the ridge and chimney sit above it on one side.
3. Wall or eave. No roof work, but the roof rises behind the dish. Only near the top of a gable wall, or out on the fascia. Wall and eave mounts.
4. Pole or mast. The only way above tall trees. Needs a footing below frost depth and a call to 811. Pole mounts.
5. Ground. Easiest of all if the yard is open. Mind snow, mowers and pets.
6. Balcony or deck. Works when it faces open sky with nothing overhead.

What rules a spot out

• Something overhead. Starlink says don’t install under a covered outdoor area, or beside a wall or structure that blocks the sky.
• Snow that buries it. Starlink recommends a spot where the dish is unlikely to get buried. Below a roof edge that sheds snow is a bad bet.
• Metal underneath. A dish resting on a metal roof or trailer deck can lose GPS (Starlink’s alert wording).
• No safe way up. Starlink’s terms say if you can’t install safely, don’t, and get professional help.
• A “best direction” rule. Starlink doesn’t say one compass direction matters more for today’s dishes, so don’t rule out a spot for facing the “wrong” way. Scan it.

Do it yourself or hire it out?

Starlink says all its mounts are designed for self-install, and to ask a roofing or installation professional if you’re unsure. Where Starlink offers professional installation, its list of standard placements is the roof, wall, fascia, gutter or another elevated spot with standard mounts, with a basic sealed penetration. Pole mounts aren’t included and its installers can’t do them, so a pole is a DIY or local-contractor job. Professional installation.